BIOS Temps Accurate? ( 2 Views )

1. I just installed my water cooling setup in my new pc. This is my first WC system, and I went with all Koolance products. 2x GPU, CPU, Northbridge, Southbridge, EXOS-2.
   
   My problem is, my case reports the CPU temp at 32C and EXOS-2 reports it at the same temp, but BIOS reports it at 60C and up! It also says the board is at 119C.. and that temp hasn't shifted at all. Ambient temp is 70F, btw.
   
   I went through an extensive bleeding process, everything seems to be flowing well, so I'm not sure where I could have gone wrong if that is the true temp.
   
   Also, the thermometers that EXOS-2 and my case read with are both placed on TOP of the CPU water block, is that typical or could that be why I am getting a different (and probably inaccurate) temp?
   
   I'm currently installing VISTA, so I won't be able to read temps with programs for a little bit.
   
   edit:
   CPU = Q6700
   Mobo = EVGA 680i A1
   
   
   (burcu769@hotmail.com, Liechtenstein)


2. Once you install vista try out core temp and see what your temps are, imo core temp is the most accurate program
   
   
   (murat, Lao People's Democratic Republic)


3. Vista installed. I couldn't get Core Temp to work with Vista 64, so I'm using SpeedFan. It's reading:
   
   CPU: 47C
   Cores: low 30s.
   
   This is at idle. Running orthos, CPU jumps to 80C and cores get to 70C. The PC is brand new, components are completely fresh, is this simply a burn-in issue? Or should I look into possibly re-seating the CPU block and applying new paste..
   
   
   (melis, Morocco)


4. Whoa, really bad temps. I am not sure if this is only the case for the 64 bit version, but Speedfan in Vista reports temps about 15 degrees cooler than it should. Something is wrong with your assembly of the kit/parts to your WC setup.
   
   
   (kader, Lao People's Democratic Republic)


5. I get better temps than that with my Ultra 120 Extreme. You can run Coretemp if you really feel the need by turning off advanced driver signing by pressing f8 after a reboot and selecting that option on the menu that appears.
   
   Do that and Coretemp will work. However, I find it easier to simply use Speedfan and add 15 degrees in my head. The math can be difficult at times, but there is a calculator built into Windows. I put a shortcut to the calculator in my quick-launch toolbar. :p
   
   
   (ender, United States)


6. Are those core temps at stock clocks on your cpu? If so then I would try reseating the block and if that fails you could always try lapping in case you have a chip with one of the bad IHS's.
   
   Otherwise if your running it with a decent amount of voltage those temps may not be wrong. I'm not sure what type of vid cards you have but with that many blocks your dumping a decent amount of heat in the loop for just an exos2 to handle.
   
   
   (memo, Seychelles)


7. WTF? Did the board roll back or something? I had a few more posts in this thread detailing the problems and solutions with the koolance blocks I was using.
   
   Summary:
   
   Dremel'd the standers down on the GPU blocks by ~1mm so that the GPU could become flush with the block.
   
   Re-seated the CPU.
   
   Re-ordered the loop so that the CPU was first.
   
   Re-configured the GPU loop area so that the Dual-Vid connectors were not in a line with the inlet and outlet.
   
   (idle) : OC'd to 3.1GHz; ambient: 80F!
   CPU: 35C
   GPU1: 49C
   GPU2: 50C
   
   (load)
   CPU: 48C (higher delta than I'd like)
   GPU1: 53C
   GPU2: 53C
   
   
   The reason I came back to this thread in the first place was to mention some other parts that were in my loop, the north and south bridges. I recently ran into a beta version of Everest UE that displays the MCP South Bridge temp, and get this, it's at 80C!
   
   There are a couple of issues with the MCP and its cooling.
   
   1) The south bridge's top screw intersects perfectly with the top PCIe slot, meaning that's a no go for usage because the screw holder is about 1 inch in size. The solution was to make use of one of the nearby motherboard screw hole, the problem is this puts both screws holding the block to the motherboard in the same left position (one at top and one at bottom). This leaves room for potential lack of touching as the right side can easily be lifted (although I have pressed down to monitor the temps with a pressured-flush, and perceived no change in temp).
   
   2) When removing the original south bridge heatpipe and cooler there was a thick, grey putty between the non-die part of the chip and the original cooler. This was removed during the cooler removal process. If this is a vital part of heat transfer from the MCP to the block, how would I go about obtaining more of this putty for replacement?
   
   
   (selim, Costa Rica)

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